On rather short notice, I’ve hit the road for a few days and headed to Ferrara, Italy. Last night, I found myself the only patron of the Ristorante Buca San Domenico (Piazza Sacrati, 22) without a hand to which I could weld my own. But that didn’t stop me from ordering the Valentine’s Day special, which my genial host described to me, spinster-with-a-novel, as roast beef, and to the lovers at the next table over as rosso passione (red passion). Indeed it was. The gorgeous beef, barely seared and sliced paper-thin, was drizzled with a rich olive oil and sprinkled with black, pink, and green peppercorns, each with a distinct perfume and piquancy. Chopped arugula decorated the margins of the plate.